Jewelry art seems to abound at Design Miami/Basel 2013, which opened on Tuesday and is offering a large range of “wearable art.”
The 8th edition of this established design fair has six of the 48 galleries dedicated to jewelry, compared with just four last year. Beyond these specialists galleries, a few other galleries have also included jewelry pieces, such as Galleria O. which is presenting a necklace of gold, diamond, and straw created by the Campana Brothers and produced by the Roman jeweler Fabio Salini..
“While there has been a jewelry program over the last three years, the jewelry presence has been reinforced this year,” said Marianne Goebl, director of Design Miami, adding, “We now have both historic and contemporary jewelry, while in the past we only had historic ones created by fine art artists.”
“This is a fair that stands for functional objects, but we see a lot of clients that come from the art world who are highly knowledgeable in contemporary art but are just starting to learn about design, and jewelry is something at the intersection because it’s a wearable sculpture. It speaks to an audience of art collectors but yet has a design DNA. We feel it’s a discipline which is really developing with more and more going on,” Goebl told BLOUIN Artinfo in an interview at the fair.
Louisa Guinness Gallery (London) dedicated its entire booth to the gold jewelry creations of Anish Kapoor, while first time participant Elisabetta Cipriani (London) is offering “Superficie,” a series of jewelry designed by Italian avant-garde artist Enrico Castellani, who is using the same techniques that he did for his iconic relief paintings over a decade ago but has created here geometric patterns on sheets of gold. Each piece is in an edition of 12.
Didier Ltd (London) is putting the spotlight on the jewelry designs of Italian sculptors Arnaldo and Gio Pomodoro, who in fact initially started as jewelers and came to sculpture through their miniature works of art. But the gallery is also offering pieces by artists like Alexander Calder, Picasso, and Salvador Dali, along with the work of the contemporary ethical studio jeweler, Ute Decker, whose minimalist sculptured jewelries are made from recycled silver and fair trade gold.
Meanwhile, Ornamentum is premiering "Qi" — the latest work of Dutch conceptual jeweler Ruudt Peters, who was inspired on a three-month trip to China. Blind drawings on stone have been transformed into wearable pendants and brooches, layered with further drawings in silver.
Finally, Antonella Villanova, from Florence, has dedicated half of its booth to an exhibition project by Lucia Massei and Pizzi Cannella. “Interno” presents a dialogue between Massei’s jewelry creations and Cannella’s Salon de Musique paintings, which have been reproduced on pure silk. The jewels of Massei combine 18th century silk, gold and shibuichi.
The gallery also presents a selection of pieces by distinguished international jewelry designers: Manfred Bischoff, Jamie Bennett, Peter Bauhuis, Rike Bartels, Helen Britton, Flora Vagi, Jacqueline Ryan, Daniela Boieri and Marzia Rossi.