Minju Kim

The just-announced winner of the H&M Design Award, Minju Kim showed a simultaneously cute and outré collection of cotton candy-colored faux-fur ensembles rendered in bizarro gorilla-like silhouettes with sloping, oversized shoulders offset by twee Peter-Pan necklines. While we can’t really imagine an H&M shopper ever buying one, we can't wait to see the designer's midriff-baring, headscratching tuxedo jacket and shorts hit the racks.

Cheap Monday

This season the hipster-approved skinny jeans purveyor went in a salable and unsurprising grunge direction. A redux of Liv Tyler’s blue pullover sweater in “Empire Records” made multiple appearances. A lavender and acid-green pinafore layered over a flannel shirt stood out nicely in a sea of lace leggings and shredded acid-wash denim.

Carin Wester

Raccoon tails were the unifying leitmotif of Carin Wester’s fall collection, where the bushy extremity dangled off the edges of furry caps and decorated screenprinted jumpsuits, bomber jackets, and mini-dresses. Shtick-y as they were, they provided some graphic relief among the designer's understated wooly separates. 

Back

Ann-Sofie Back welcomed her new diffusion line with a color-happy pop-art bonanza. Black and yellow taxicab checks, hologram Lurex, and racing stripes adorned T-shirts, roomy knit dresses, and low-slung button-up skirts. Brash passages of text with the affirming motto “back for good” set the feel-good tone of the show.

Diana Orving

Despite the season’s overall propensity for commercial sportswear, Diana Orving stayed true to her couture-like romantic sensibility, showing draped tops and blouses in shades of cobalt, slate, and chalk. The show's closing look, a wide-leg chiffon jumpsuit with delicate lace appliques in black and oxblood, was the most striking.