Prints and Color Tease the Eye in Issey Miyake’s Spring Collection

(Patrick Kovarik/AFP/GettyImages)

PARIS – Color was the starting point for Yoshiyuki Miyamae’s spring 2013 Issey Miyake collection. “I wanted to share color with many people around the world,” said the designer, who has only been with the house for three seasons, backstage. This is precisely what he did with his light spring dresses and separates, which came in a veritable rainbow of color combinations. Miyamae also focused on fabric innovation — double sided printing created optical illusion garments whose prints seemingly shifted and shimmered as the material moved. Dresses and tops with a textural degrader check in grey or blue bounced, playfully, as the models walked down the runway. Striped looks in an accordion fabric did the same.

Early in the collection the designer’s looks featured block coloring and, perhaps, one print. But as the show went on, he fused groups of colors and patterns into single garments. In a kind of crescendo, girls draped in delicate looks covered in stripes, checks, and geometric panels of cool spring hues began to weave from one side of the metallic silver runway to the other. Apparently, the designer also pulled inspiration from birds’ wings. “It was meant to replicate what birds look like when they come out of the water,” explained Miyamae, when asked about the catwalk choreography. When the models took their final lap, they did so in fluttering, printed capes. Indeed, when draped in these looks, Issey Miyake’s spring women were flying.

Click on the slide show to see looks from the Issey Miyake spring 2013 collection.  

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