Drawing on Dada and Literature, Phillip Lim Turns Out a Grunge Throwback Vibe on the Spring Runway
Titled “Cut It Up,” 3.1 Phillip Lim’s spring collection was apparently inspired by a literary technique called “cut-up,” which, having originated with the Dadaists in the 1920s, was also popular in the ’50s, ’70s, and ’90s, particularly amongst musicians. However, Lim’s spring looks, which featured sheer interpretations of plaid, slouched trousers (some of which were shown with suspenders), and easy shirt-dresses, felt more like a throwback to grunge. Baggy pants were adorned with folds at the waist, as well as tie details in the front, which made it seem as though the model had a shirt thrown around her hips. Lots of layers and “I <3 Nueva York” T-shirts enhanced the Nirvana-era vibe. A fitted powder-blue floral biker jacket was a clear stand out.
Color Palette: Black, blue, violet, moss, and plaid (sometimes done in shimmering beads) paired with pops of colorful floral
Silhouettes: Low-slung pants, belly-baring sweaters, roomy tops and frocks, and lots of layering
Materials: Leather, silk, and denim
Inspiration: The “cut-up” literary technique; a balance between street and polish
Front Row Notables: Dree Hemingway, Miroslava Duma, Mandy Moore
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