FEATURES

In the wake of the America’s Cuplast year, Valenciahas gone from sleepyto juiced in recordtime. It’s a cityof restored Art Nouveauand soaringCalatravas, oldtimefiestas andchic A-list parties.By Anya von Bremzen.Photographs byJason Fulford

84 Compass:These days Valenciahas far more thanpaella to recommendit (but don’t missthe paella).

In Spain’s overheatedsoccer culture, one teamseems to thriveon losing: AtléticoMadrid, a.k.a."the jinxed." A NewYork Yankee haterjoins their masochisticfans andlearns to love thethrill of defeat.
By Barry Yourgrau.
Photographs byMathias Braschlerand Monika Fischer
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94 Compass: Madrid’s hottestspots, on and offthe field. Plus,anticipating Expo2008, Zaha Hadidand others buildZaragoza’s bridgeto the world.

At an institutionoutside Vienna,"special" artistscreate collectibleworks—and thestaff makes surethey take theirmeds three times aday. Just don’t callthem patients.By Daphne Merkin.
Photographs byStefan Ruiz
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108 Compass: Have a ball inVienna. Plus,Jean Dubuffet,the godfatherof Outsider Art.

A murderousopera composer,a love-struck fan,and the madlyleaping, poison-herb-eating,wig-igniting divaswho inspiredthem: Mamma mia!By Fred Plotkin.Collages by BalintZsako

116 Compass: Happy birthday,Giacomo! How tocelebrate Puccini’s150th, in Italyand stateside.

PhotographerLuigi Ghirri turnsa prankish eyetoward Italy andfinds lots of loveamong the ruins.By Craig Seligman

DEPARTMENTS

The buxom women in Fellini’s head, a U.N.–Hollywood schmoozefestin Jackson Hole, aHubble in your laptop,and other arts andtravel highlights fromaround the world.

Where to kick backand unwind fromthe frenzy of the 5thBerlin Biennial, theMoscow World FineArt Fair, Art Basel, theBrussels Oriental andAncient Art Fairs, andthe Tour de France.

32 Berlin
34 Moscow
36 Basel
38 Brussels
40 France Read the Article

From jazzto fringe theater, fromGlasgow to Athens, theContinent is abuzz thisspring and summer.

London’s fustyConnaught gets aface-lift, fortunatelyleaving no visiblescars. Rock stars andRockefellers approve.By Kate Sekules

As the earth heats up,will the grapes inBurgundy shrivel onthe vine? Will a newChampagne regionsprout in Denmark? Ata wine confab, theexperts sip and ponder.By Melissa Clark

Three ingeniousNorth American chefscreate a stir, in Paris,Lisbon, and Berlin.

An Abe Lincoln impersonatorand a MichaelJackson impersonatorblast through a littleScottish town on motorcyclewhile shoutingthrough a megaphone … which can only meanthat Harmony Korine isshooting a movie.By Richard Strange
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59 Compass: In Scotland, yourhome away from homeis your castle.

Why do fair-hairedGreek heroes encountersnow in the Mediterranean?Maybe it’sbecause they’re Nordic.A classicist sets sail totest a radical theory.By William Mullen

Picture an edgy ColonialWilliamsburg,transport it to theNetherlands, and fillthe buildings with up-to-the-minute art anddesign, and you getsome idea of the new-and-improved ZuiderzeeMuseum.
By MariaShollenbarger

71 Compass: The Netherlands, design paradise.

In a small Piedmontesetown, members of anagricultural communewith names like AntCoriander and Sunset-Butterfly Pineapplehave drilled intoa mountain to createthe most fanciful,elaborately paintedcaves sinceTutankhamen.By Graeme Wood

Karl himself wason display at the granddepartment storePrintemps, and all ofParis came to gawk. By Mary Alice Kellogg