FEATURES

A Russian émigré visits the ghosts of literary St. Petersburg, and of her childhood – and gets spooked. By Anya von Bremzen. Collages by Balint Szako
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60 Compass: St. Petersburg by the book. Plus, Moscow modern: endangered Constructivist buildings.
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Photographer Lars Tunbjörk beat his seasonal depression by shooting pictures like a madman. His chilly scenes ofSweden offer cold comfort. Interview by Susan Chumsky

70 Compass: Where to stay warm in wintry Stockholm.

It survived Prohibition, ready-made margarita mixes, and Tom Cruise. Now the artful American cocktail is back for another round. By Kolby Yarnell. Photographs by Matthu Placek

78 Compass: New-wave cocktail bars. Plus, what the well-stocked bar needs now.

Every fall, tourists flock to Churchill, Manitoba, to gawk at the polar bears. What does global warming look like from its front lines?By Joe Yogerst. Photographs by Jill Greenberg

84 Compass: Communing with the bears.

Dwarfs croon, new-best-friends bestow gifts, and free food abounds in the exceedingly boozy, totally loco world of Mexico City cantinas. By David Lida. Photographs by Kevin Cooley
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94 Compass: The best places to say salud, and other diversions in Mexico City.
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DEPARTMENTS

Big Ben spawns two smaller Bens, the Panama Jazz Festival steps out, Van Gogh’sdoodles get the museum treatment, and other arts and travel highlights from around the world.

After you’ve checked out the contemporary art at ARCO ‘08, kick back, kick up your (flamenco) heels, andexperience the real city that never sleeps.

Peter Doig and Chris Ofili are the most renowned artists in Trinidad, and believe it or not that’s saying a lot. The isle has become the art capital of the Caribbean.By Nicholas Laughlin

34 Compass: A tour of Trinidad’s vibrant art scene and Carnival.

You call that a banana? As more food comes from a lab, it all starts to taste like agar-agar.By Frederick Kaufman

At Propeller Island City Lodge in Berlin, guests sleep in art installations that double asbedrooms. Just don’t have sex in the coffins.
By Anna Watson

Eau de Westin? Essence of Langham? Hotel chains are puttin’ on the spritz inearnest, trying to reach guests through their nostrils. Does scent branding work, ordoes it have a whiff of the charlatan?
By Mary Alice Kellogg

The pristine beaches! The spectacularBuddhist temples! The evil military junta!Should travelers visit the country-sizeprison of Burma? And what will they findthere if they do? By Joe Dolce

Telling stories in Central Park, one of the world’s great people-watching spots.By Susan Chumsky