In the wake of the America’s Cuplast year, Valenciahas gone from sleepyto juiced in recordtime. It’s a cityof restored Art Nouveauand soaringCalatravas, oldtimefiestas andchic A-list parties.By Anya von Bremzen.Photographs byJason Fulford
84 Compass:These days Valenciahas far more thanpaella to recommendit (but don’t missthe paella).
In Spain’s overheatedsoccer culture, one teamseems to thriveon losing: AtléticoMadrid, a.k.a."the jinxed." A NewYork Yankee haterjoins their masochisticfans andlearns to love thethrill of defeat. By Barry Yourgrau. Photographs byMathias Braschlerand Monika Fischer Read the Article
94 Compass: Madrid’s hottestspots, on and offthe field. Plus,anticipating Expo2008, Zaha Hadidand others buildZaragoza’s bridgeto the world.
At an institutionoutside Vienna,"special" artistscreate collectibleworks—and thestaff makes surethey take theirmeds three times aday. Just don’t callthem patients.By Daphne Merkin. Photographs byStefan Ruiz Read the Article
108 Compass: Have a ball inVienna. Plus,Jean Dubuffet,the godfatherof Outsider Art.
A murderousopera composer,a love-struck fan,and the madlyleaping, poison-herb-eating,wig-igniting divaswho inspiredthem: Mamma mia!By Fred Plotkin.Collages by BalintZsako
116 Compass: Happy birthday,Giacomo! How tocelebrate Puccini’s150th, in Italyand stateside.
PhotographerLuigi Ghirri turnsa prankish eyetoward Italy andfinds lots of loveamong the ruins.By Craig Seligman
From jazzto fringe theater, fromGlasgow to Athens, theContinent is abuzz thisspring and summer.
London’s fustyConnaught gets aface-lift, fortunatelyleaving no visiblescars. Rock stars andRockefellers approve.By Kate Sekules
As the earth heats up,will the grapes inBurgundy shrivel onthe vine? Will a newChampagne regionsprout in Denmark? Ata wine confab, theexperts sip and ponder.By Melissa Clark
Three ingeniousNorth American chefscreate a stir, in Paris,Lisbon, and Berlin.
An Abe Lincoln impersonatorand a MichaelJackson impersonatorblast through a littleScottish town on motorcyclewhile shoutingthrough a megaphone … which can only meanthat Harmony Korine isshooting a movie.By Richard Strange Read the Article
59 Compass: In Scotland, yourhome away from homeis your castle.
Why do fair-hairedGreek heroes encountersnow in the Mediterranean?Maybe it’sbecause they’re Nordic.A classicist sets sail totest a radical theory.By William Mullen
Picture an edgy ColonialWilliamsburg,transport it to theNetherlands, and fillthe buildings with up-to-the-minute art anddesign, and you getsome idea of the new-and-improved ZuiderzeeMuseum. By MariaShollenbarger
71 Compass: The Netherlands, design paradise.
In a small Piedmontesetown, members of anagricultural communewith names like AntCoriander and Sunset-Butterfly Pineapplehave drilled intoa mountain to createthe most fanciful,elaborately paintedcaves sinceTutankhamen.By Graeme Wood
Karl himself wason display at the granddepartment storePrintemps, and all ofParis came to gawk. By Mary Alice Kellogg